Bring the bayou to your kitchen

I met chefs Frank Brigtsen, owner of Brigtsen’s, and Leah Chase, owner of Dooky Chase, restaurants while in New Orleans. These are two totally amazing people who have heightened my desire to learn more about food, regions and the history of food.

Leah is an 86-year-old African-American woman who has been named as one of the top 10 most outstanding black women in America. She took over and still runs her father’s (Dooky Chase) restaurant that was and still is the political hub for black voters.

From the days of handwritten menus, chrome chairs and plastic tablecloths, Ms. Chase has created a more elegant dining experience but her concern for community can still be felt strongly. To sit and talk with her it is like sitting at grandma’s table, and you are part of her family.

Her fried chicken is claimed to be the best in the world, and President Obama made a stop for a bowl of her gumbo.

Chef Brigtsen’s passion for food is an inspiration and reminded me why I love the process of creating food for people to enjoy. He once said: "Food has always been and always will be the center of everything from nourishment to entertainment. From ancient times salt, spices, and new produce have been sought. Think about it, Columbus was on a mission to find a faster route to the Indies for spices."

Chef Brigtsen has been named one of America’s top 10 chefs, and his restaurant has been listed on Zagat’s as Southeast Top Cajun Restaurant.

Chefs Chase and Brigtsen were invited to speak at the chefs convention I was attending through the United States Personal Chefs Association. Together they demonstrated Mustard and Cornmeal Fried Catfish with Stone Ground Jalapeño Cheese Grits and Creole Sauce.

I must tell you, for someone who has never liked grits (and I have tried them in Savannah, Charleston and Charlotte cooked by some pretty amazing chefs) these grits rock! The Creole sauce is also a must-try, and both are very easy.  

One of the first things I learned is that Cajun and Creole cooks call onions, celery and bell pepper the holy trinity and then if you want to invite the pope, add the garlic. With that little bit of trivia in mind, here is the recipe for Mustard and Cornmeal Fried Catfish with Stone Ground Jalapeño Cheese Grits and Creole Sauce:

For Creole sauce:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 cups diced green bell peppers
1-1/2 cups diced celery
2 cups diced yellow onions
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried sweet basil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon fresh garlic, minced
6 cups whole plum tomatoes, puréed with juice
1 tablespoon white sugar

Heat the oil in a pot over high heat. Add bell peppers and celery and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the onions and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become soft and clear.

Reduce heat to low and add basil, oregano, thyme, salt, cayenne, black and white pepper and garlic. Cook for 1 minute stirring constantly. Add the tomato purée and sugar.

Cook at a very low heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

For grits
8 cups of milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons very finely chopped fresh shallots
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Jalapeño pepper (they left the seeds in)
1-1/2 cups stone ground grits
4 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy pot over low heat, cook milk, salt and jalapeños. Cook just until the milk is scalded (almost a boil). Add the butter, shallots and grits and whisk until thoroughly blended. Cook until the grits are thick and tender, whisking occasionally. Add the cheese and whisk in cheese making sure it is fully blended. You can turn off the flame and cover your pot at this time and the grits will set until the catfish is fried.

Catfish
4 eggs
1 cup yellow mustard
1 cup Zatarain’s Creole mustard
2 cups milk
4 cups all-purpose white flour
4 cups yellow corn flour
4 cups yellow corn meal
1 cup Seafood Magic seasoning
3-1/2 pounds catfish filets cut into thin strips
Vegetable oil for frying

In a mixing bowl, add eggs and whisk until frothy. Add mustards and whisk until well blended. Add milk and whisk. Set aside.

In a separate bowl, blend together white flour, corn flour and corn meal and 3/4 cup of seafood seasoning.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat to 375 degrees. The oil should be about 1/4-inch deep so that it comes up the sides of the catfish pieces but not over the top.

Season the catfish pieces lightly and evenly on both sides with the seafood seasonings. Dip the catfish into the wet mustard batter and then the dry seasoned flour batter. Place immediately into the hot oil. Fry until crispy on both sides, turning once, about 2 minutes per side. Place fried catfish on paper towels to drain.  

To serve, ladle about 1/2 cup of the Creole sauce onto each serving plate, place about 1/3 cup of grits in the center of each plate. Top with 2 pieces of fried catfish. Serve immediately.

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Another delightful taste from New Orleans was Pickled Shrimp. This can be served as an appetizer, on a green salad or just enjoyed by itself. You will see this on many of my appetizer menus this fall.

Ashley's Pickled Shrimp
(Adapted from "Crescent City Cooking" by Susan Spicer)

For marinade:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup apple cider or red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup sugar
1 clove garlic
1 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 large red onion, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons capers
3 bay leaf, fresh
2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped

Whisk everything together in a large bowl.

For shrimp
1 lemon, quartered
2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
1 tablespoon salt
4 bay leaves
1 tablespoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon crushed  red pepper flakes
2 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Place a large pot containing about 1 gallon water over high heat. Squeeze the lemon quarters into the water, then drop in. Add all the spices and seasonings and bring to a boil.  

Reduce heat and simmer for about 5 minutes.

Return pot to boil and add shrimp, cook for 3-4 minutes, until the shrimp are cooked (they'll become opaque and the tails will turn bright pink). Drain the pot well and transfer the still-warm shrimp to the bowl of marinade. Marinate the shrimp for at least 15 minutes or store covered in the refrigerator up to one day before serving.

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Karla Billdt works as a personal chef in Yuma and owns Karla's Kreations.