Luscious things to make with grapefruit

There's nothing namby-pamby about grapefruit.

The flavor profile can be assertive, with eye-opening tartness. The fragrance defines citrus perfume as the juice releases with a gentle crunch from see-through membranes.

In some grapefruit varieties that sourpuss taste is balanced with sweetness. In some, that acidic personality is complex, offering a hint of bitterness along with an oh-so-elusive pinch of sugary allure.

Chefs and home cooks who appreciate ingredients with assertive flavors embrace grapefruit. Not only is its juice a refreshing boost in cocktails, it teams with fish and shellfish in an irresistible way. When paired with grapefruit, seafood tastes sweet and delicious. Grapefruit also beautifully complements avocado, rich pate and game - even scaloppine.

And that head-turning tart spark can be tamed with sugar to make incredible desserts or starters. Broil half a grapefruit topped with rum and brown sugar, and you have a wake-up start to breakfast, brunch or supper. Use fresh grapefruit juice and zest to flavor a layer cake topped with cream cheese frosting, and it is sublime.

The name is derived from the way the fruit forms clusters on the tree, similar to bunches of grapes hanging on a vine. Some botanists contend that grapefruit is a hybrid of orange and pummelo, the citrus fruit that looks like an enormous grapefruit (sometimes as big as a volleyball) that is wildly popular in Asian cuisines.

Some grapefruit have pink skin, others bright lemon-yellow. Some are greenish-yellow with a pink blush. Inside, the flesh can range from reddish-pink to all shades of yellow, as well as orange.

Here's the rundown on grapefruit varieties:

- Cocktail: A cross between pummelo and mandarin, these small grapefruit (about 4 inches in diameter) have thin, orange-yellow skin and flesh. They are sweet and low in acidity. Available January to March.

- Melogold: This large grapefruit has green-tinged yellow skin and white flesh. The skin is thick and easily peeled. Sometimes Melogolds have hollow central cores. They are sweet and juicy with low acidity. Available October to April.

- Oro Blanco: This grapefruit has a very pleasing balance of acidity and sweetness. The fairly thick skin is light yellow to lemon yellow, often tinged with green. The flesh is light yellow, generally with very few seeds. Available November to March.

- Ruby, Pink or Red: The skin is pink-blushed and fairly thin. The flesh can be deep red or pink with few seeds. The flavor profile is more acidic than Oro Blanco. Often the redder the color, the sweeter the taste. Available year-round.

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10 LUSCIOUS THINGS TO MAKE WITH GRAPEFRUIT

1. Crimson greyhound: This cocktail is a stunning red color. Divide between 2 tall glasses: 2/3 cup pink grapefruit juice, 2/3 cup vodka and 2 tablespoons pomegranate juice; stir and fill with ice. Garnish each glass with a pink grapefruit twist. If you want to salt rims to make Salty Crimson Dogs, do so before adding ingredients (dip rims into fresh grapefruit juice, then into coarse salt).

2. New Orleans broiled grapefruit: The city's much-loved Commander's Palace restaurant offers this incredible rum- and sugar-topped treat. Start by cutting 2 ruby grapefruit in half around the "equator." Using a grapefruit knife or other small serrated knife, cut flesh into sections by running knife along each side of the membranes that separate them. Cut around edge of fruit to separate it from rind, but don't remove. Place cut-side up in baking dish. Drizzle each half with 1 tablespoon dark rum. If it doesn't soak in, poke a few holes in fruit. Combine 1/2 cup brown sugar and 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Sprinkle over tops of grapefruit. Broil 4 to 5 minutes, or until sugar and juice boil and sugar starts to darken. Serve each in small bowl and pour any pan juices on top. (Adapted from "Commander's Kitchen" by Ti Adelaide Martin and Jamie Shannon.)

3. Cluck with spunk: Arrange scoops of chicken salad (or crab salad) on a bed of mixed baby greens. Place peeled segments of grapefruit around the chicken mixture. Sprinkle with finely chopped fresh basil or Italian parsley.

4. Fruit salad: Sections of peeled grapefruit are delectable in fruit salads. Here's a version that showcases those tomato-shaped persimmons called the Fuyu variety. In a jar, combine 1/4 cup fresh grapefruit juice, 1/4 cup walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, plus salt and pepper to taste; shake to combine. Arrange 2 layers of butter lettuce on platter. Cut 4 trimmed Fuyu persimmons into crosswise slices about 1/4-inch thick; arrange on top of lettuce. Peel 1 to 2 pink grapefruits and cut into sections; place on top. Drizzle with dressing and top with shavings of Parmesan cheese. If desired, garnish with pomegranate seeds or toasted walnut pieces.

5. Grapefruit beurre blanc sauce: Use this irresistible butter sauce atop broiled or grilled fish fillets. To make it, peel 2 grapefruit and cut into sections, reserving juice. In heavy bottomed, medium saucepan place 2 minced shallots, 1/3 cup dry white wine, 1/2 cup grapefruit juice and 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar; boil on medium-high heat until reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Remove from heat and stir in 1 stick butter (1/2 cup), 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to incorporate butter. If mixture becomes too cool to incorporate butter, return briefly to heat. Chop half of grapefruit sections and stir into sauce. Season with salt and pepper; spoon over cooked fish. Garnish with remaining grapefruit sections. (From "Melissa's Great Book of Produce" by Cathy Thomas.)

6. Not-So-Southern Ambrosia: The festive Southern dessert is traditionally made with orange sections and coconut; it can take on a perky edge by substituting grapefruit for the orange. Peel 6 ruby grapefruit and cut into sections; cut sections in half, crosswise. Place in bowl with 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, 2 tablespoons Campari, 2 tablespoons sugar and pinch of salt. Gently toss. Cover and refrigerate at least 15 minutes or up to 4 hours. Just before serving, stir in 1/2 cup shelled, salted pistachios. (Adapted from "The Gourmet Cookbook" edited by Ruth Reichl.)

7. Perky sorbet: Grapefruit sorbet is often served as a palate cleanser between courses. Prepare a simple syrup: Combine 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar in medium saucepan (some chefs add 4-6 black peppercorns) and bring to boil on high heat. Reduce to medium-low and simmer 4 minutes. Cool (fish out and discard peppercorns if using); chill. Combine 1-1/2 cups chilled simple syrup, 1 cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice and 1/2 teaspoon minced grapefruit zest (colored portion of peel). Process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions.

8. 'Cado salad: Annie Somerville, executive chef of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, makes an outstanding salad that showcases grapefruit sections and avocado slices topped with a grapefruit-chili vinaigrette (recipe follows).

9. Scaloppine a la grapefruit: Veal or chicken breast cutlets cooked scaloppine-style are delicious garnished with grapefruit sections. Pound 2 cutlets (5 ounces each) between waxed paper until very thin. Dust with flour, shaking off excess. Heat about 1 tablespoon olive oil in large skillet on medium-high heat and add meat. Cook until well browned on each side and cooked through. Remove meat and add 1/3 cup dry white wine; cook until reduced by half, scraping up browned bits on pan. Add 1 tablespoon butter and grapefruit sections. Stir until butter melts and grapefruit is heated. Spoon over meat and season with salt and pepper. (Adapted from "Nicole Routhier's Fruit Cookbook.")

10. Citrus Surprise Cake (recipe below): The surprise in this layer cake is the zing added by the grapefruit. The cake is made in the classic chiffon technique, using oil instead of butter. The light texture comes from folding whipped egg whites into the batter.

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HOW TO PEEL AND SECTION CITRUS FRUIT

It isn't at all difficult to peel and cut citrus into sections. But it may seem a little daunting when you read the how-to steps.

First, if a recipe calls for zest (the colored portion of the peel), remove the zest first before cutting the fruit into sections. There is a gizmo called a microplane that makes it easy to remove the zest (it's sold at kitchenware shops and department stores).

Here are the step-by-step procedures for peeling citrus and cutting it into sections:

Place citrus on cutting board on its side. Cut top off and cut bottom off; these cuts should be deep enough to expose fruit's flesh.

Set fruit cut side down on cutting board. Cut off peel and pith in strips about 1-inch wide, starting at the top of the fruit, cutting down, following the contour of the fruit.

Once all peel and pith is removed, hold fruit over bowl to collect juice and use a sharp knife to cut parallel to one section's membrane, cutting to center of fruit. Turn knife and cut along membrane on the other side of that section to remove it. Repeat to remove all sections from membranes.

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CITRUS SURPRISE CAKE

Yield: 16 servings

CAKE:

2 cups (8 ounces) white whole-wheat flour; see cook's notes

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 large egg yolks (save the whites)

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1-1/2 cups sugar

1/3 cup water

1/4 cup fresh grapefruit juice

1 tablespoon freshly grated grapefruit zest (colored part of peel)

5 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

FROSTING:

2 packages (16 ounces total) cream cheese, softened

3 cups (12 ounces) sifted powdered sugar

2 teaspoons freshly grated grapefruit zest (colored part of peel)

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest (colored part of peel)

1 tablespoon fresh grapefruit juice

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Garnish: 1 grapefruit, peeled, cut into sections

For serving: vanilla ice cream

Cook's notes: King Arthur white whole-wheat flour is sold at Trader Joe's and some supermarkets.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease two 9-inch cake pans, line with parchment paper or wax paper; grease paper.

Whisk flour, baking power and salt in medium bowl; set aside.

Combine egg yolks and oil in large mixing bowl and mix at low speed while gradually pouring in sugar. Add water, grapefruit juice; beat 20 seconds. Add dry ingredients. Beat 3 minutes on medium speed, then stop and scrape down sides and bottom of bowl. Mix in grapefruit zest.

In separate bowl with clean beaters, beat egg whites until foamy. (Any grease left on beaters will keep eggs from whipping to their proper volume). Add cream of tartar and continue beating until soft peaks form. Carefully fold beaten egg whites into cake batter. Divide batter evenly between pans. Bake until top of cake pulls away from edge of pan, and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove cakes from oven and run a dinner knife around edge of each cake. Cool cakes in pans for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, remove layers from their pans and peel off paper. Cool completely on wire racks, then refrigerate or freeze before frosting.

To make frosting, blend cream cheese and powdered sugar in large bowl until smooth (or use food processor, pulsing to combine). Add grated zests and juices; beat until smooth.

Place one layer of cake on cake plate. Spread with about 2/3 cup of frosting. Top with second layer. Frost top and sides of cake with remaining frosting and garnish with grapefruit segments. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Source: Adapted from "King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking" (The Countryman Press, $35)

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BUTTER LETTUCE WITH RUBY GRAPEFRUIT, AVOCADO AND GRAPEFRUIT-CHILI VINAIGRETTE

Yield: 6 servings

VINAIGRETTE:

1/3 cup grapefruit sections

1 tablespoon fresh grapefruit juice

1/2 tablespoon Champagne vinegar

1 red or green jalapeño chili, seeded, coarsely chopped; see cook's notes

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon minced grapefruit zest (colored portion of peel)

SALAD:

2 heads butter lettuce (about 10 cups inner leaves and trimmed outer leaves)

1-1/2 large ruby grapefruit

1 avocado, peeled, sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

1-1/2 tablespoons toasted pumpkin seeds; divided use

Cook's notes: If desired, Cara Cara oranges may be used in place of ruby grapefruit. Use caution when working with fresh chilies. Upon completion, wash hands and work surface thoroughly and do NOT touch face or eyes. To prepare toasted pumpkin seeds, remove seeds from pumpkin and place in colander. Wash with cold water and remove membranes. Dry with paper towels and toss with enough vegetable oil to lightly coat surface. Place on rimmed baking sheet in single layer and sprinkle with coarse salt. Toast in middle of 350-degree oven until lightly browned, giving the pan a shake after about 5 minutes to redistribute seeds and keep browning even. It usually takes about 12 total minutes. Cool completely before using in the salad.

Prepare vinaigrette: Place all vinaigrette ingredients except zest in blender; purée ingredients. Whisk in zest.

Place avocado in small bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons vinaigrette; season with salt and pepper.

In large bowl, combine lettuce, grapefruit sections and 1 tablespoon of pumpkin seeds. Add remaining vinaigrette and gently toss. Divide between 6 salad plates. Add avocado and garnish with remaining pumpkin seeds. Serve.

Source: Adapted from "Everyday Greens" by Annie Somerville (Scribner, $40)