Grate pizza: Fire up the grill

They don’t look especially inviting. Stashed next to the cheese in Trader Joe’s refrigerated deli case, the satchels of pizza dough look like sad little bags of putty. But pretty is as pretty does.

What they lack in glamour, they more than make up for in time-saving convenience. For a buck and a quarter, that dough can make homemade pizza a snap, especially if those pies are grilled on the barbecue.

The prepared dough is available plain, or spiked with herbs and garlic. One package makes two 8- to 9-inch pizzas.

Yes, you purists out there, I can hear your words in my noggin. I know it isn’t difficult to make the dough from scratch. And I think it’s great if you want to do the yeast-flour dance. You have my blessings.

For me, when it’s hot outside (and inside my kitchen), there’s a real feeling of accomplishment when I can produce something absolutely delicious without much work. The notion of teaming prepared dough and the barbecue to create great pizza is irresistible.

Grilling a pizza takes about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire. The technique creates an appealing crust that is crisp on the outside and a little chewy on the inside. And the topping possibilities are practically endless.

The technique for grilling pizza isn’t complicated. Start by pushing dough (to a thickness of a little less than 1/4-inch) on a piece of oiled parchment paper. It’s not important that it be perfectly round; go for an informal irregular shape. Brush the top of the dough with a little oil then invert it onto a heated, oiled barbecue grate.

Grill until just starting to brown, covered, about 1 to 2 minutes. Open the grill and remove parchment and rotate dough, moving to a cooler spot if necessary. When it’s nicely browned on the bottom, brush the top of the dough with oil and turn it over using a wide spatula. Place toppings on cooked side (which is now the top). Cover and continue to cook until bottom of crust is brown and toppings are hot, checking frequently.

These dandy pizzas can be the centerpiece of a party. Guests can select their own toppings and create signature pizzas. And everyone will have fun in the process.

To answer questions about pizza on the barbecue, I consulted with expert Jamie Purviance, chef and author of “Weber’s Charcoal Grilling – The Art of Cooking With Live Fire” (Sunset, $19.95). Purviance has written three other books about outdoor grilling and is a certified judge on the barbecue circuit. Here’s some of his grilled pizza wisdom:

Why is grilled pizza so delicious?
It’s one of my favorites. In my cooking classes I get a lot of comments about it, both because it’s so delicious and because it represents something new for a lot of folks. It’s all about flavor - that toasted effect on the bread is very appealing. And it is very assessible, very easy. It’s simpler and faster than baking it in the oven.

So how is grilled pizza crust different than one cooked in a professional pizza oven? Or is it?
Typically, pizza from a pizza oven, whether wood-fired or gas, is thinner and a little crisper than on the grill.

Ever use store-bought dough?
Oh sure, a few times. And it worked out great.

Can you give us tips for rolling out the dough? And what should you do if you poke a hole in the dough?
I think working on lightly oiled parchment paper using your fingers is the best. If you get a hole, patch it up, push it together. Or you can pat the dough into a ball and let it sit 15 minutes, then try again.

How hot should the barbecue be when you put on the dough? Should you heat it with the lid down or up?
Heat barbecue with lid down for 10 to 15 minutes. You want medium heat. If your barbecue has a thermometer, it should read in the 350-degree to 450-degree range. To test for medium, hold your hand about a beer-can distance over the grate; you should be able to hold your hand for about 5-6 seconds. If not, it’s too hot.

When you add the dough, it shouldn’t sizzle like a steak. But this is a very flexible technique - if a little high or a little low it’s OK. Burning is the problem. You don’t want a burnt-toast smell. If using charcoal, there should be areas that are hotter and colder, so you can move the dough around. Rotate the dough as it grills, especially on the first side.

Do you have any advice for first-timers?
First-timers should grill on the low side of medium heat rather than the high side of medium. Generally speaking, you don’t have to nail the temperature. It’s pretty flexible.

You say to build a two-zone fire. What’s that?
That means that you light the charcoal and spread the hot coals in a tightly packed, single layer on one-half to three-quarters of the charcoal grate. Put on the cooking grate and close lid. For pizzas, let the coals burn down to medium heat.

Here’s a problem that I sometimes have. On the first side that I cook, the center of the crust scorches before edges are cooked. What’s going on? And how do you know when it’s ready to turn?
I suspect that you’re making the dough too thin in the center. Make the center a little thicker and that won’t happen, and slide it to another part of the grill (where it is cooler) if it’s browning too quickly. Turn crust when it is slightly firm but still a little flexible.

Sometimes a bubble forms in the dough as it cooks. Why?

That’s the CO2 released from the yeast. It’s not a bad thing. You can just poke it with the point of a knife. It’s fine.

What are some tips for hosting a grilled pizza party?
I like to serve grilled pizzas as appetizers. You can have them partially ready; grill each crust on one side an hour before the party starts. Stack them up, placing a sheet of parchment paper between each crust. Have the toppings ready. I usually put out grilled mushrooms, a good melting cheese (grated), grilled red onions, pieces of grilled chicken, grilled sausage, chopped fresh herbs and thick tomato sauce.

Guests who are interested can make their own pizzas. Hand them a half-cooked crust and ask them to top it, then slide it on the grill. Often they can get competitive about it, suggesting that their pizza is the best. It makes it fun.

Sometimes, the crust around the edge is bland. I notice that after the pizza comes off the fire, you brush the edge with a little olive oil. That’s a really great idea.

What do you think about sprinkling it with a tiny bit of kosher salt on the edge after it’s brushed with olive oil?
I’m worried that the salt won’t stay in place.

How about pesto?
Pesto works really well on grilled pizza. You could brush it on the edge of the crust when it comes off the grill. Or better yet, put dabs of it on top of the filling when it comes off the grill. Place those dabs strategically so that each slice will have one. The pesto can be made with basil, but arugula is good, too.

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This is a kid-friendly pizza with a very mild flavor profile, especially if you use a smoked chicken sausage with apples. I think Trader Joe’s had a child’s taste buds in mind when they made their pizza sauce, so if I’m serving children, that’s the sauce that I use. If I’m using the same pizza sauce for adults, I often augment it with plenty of finely minced fresh herbs and a pinch of dried red chili flakes.

This pizza can be jazzed up flavor-wise by turning it into Grilled Pizza With Prosciutto and Goat Cheese; add crumbled goat cheese and three or four strips of prosciutto after the pizza comes off the grill.

GRILLED PIZZA WITH TOMATO SAUCE, CHEESE AND SMOKED SAUSAGE
Yield: Two 8- to 9-inch pizzas, about 12-16 wedges
Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing dough and parchment paper
2 (12-inch) squares of parchment paper
1 (16-ounce) package Trader Joe’s refrigerated pizza dough (dough with herbs and garlic preferred)
About 2/3 cup thick tomato sauce or pizza sauce; divided use
1/2 cup diced, fully cooked smoked sausage, such as chicken with apples; divided use
About 2/3 cup grated mozzarella cheese or mixture of grated Italian cheeses, such as Parmesan, fontina, Asiago and provolone (such as Trader Joe’s Quattro Formaggio)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil; divided use

Prepare a two-zone fire for medium heat if using charcoal grill (see questions and answer). If using gas grill, heat to medium, leaving one area of grill with heat off.

Brush parchment squares with olive oil. Cut dough in half and place each half on an oiled parchment square. Use fingers to flatten each, pressing to create an 8- to 9-inch “round.”

Brush clean grill grate with olive oil. You can cook two crusts at once, but it is easier to start out with just one. Place dough on oiled grate over direct heat, parchment side up. Leave parchment in place and close lid. Grill about 1 to 2 minutes. Open grill and remove (and discard) parchment.

Give crust a quarter turn, checking to make sure it isn’t getting too brown. If necessary, move it to a cooler spot on grill. Keep lid closed as much as possible, until crust is well-marked and firm on the underside, a total of 2 to 5 minutes, rotating as needed for even cooking. Turn crust over.

If working with just one crust at a time, you can leave it on the grill and quickly add toppings. If working with more than one, remove to a baking sheet and add topping, then return it to grill. Spread about 1/4 to 1/3 cup pizza sauce over surface, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge. Scatter half of diced sausage and half of grated cheese on top of sauce.

Grill over direct heat with lid on as much as possible, until cheese melts and bottom of crust is crisp, 2 to 5 minutes, rotating pizza occasionally for even cooking. Transfer to cutting board. Brush edges with oil and garnish with basil. Cut into wedges. Serve warm.

Grown-up variation - Tomato Sauce, Prosciutto and Goat Cheese: When Grilled Pizza With Tomato Sauce, Cheese and Smoked Sausage comes off grill, top with crumbled goat cheese, thin strips of fresh basil and 3 or 4 very thin strips of prosciutto. If desired, sprinkle on a smidgen of dried red pepper flakes.

Adapted from “Weber’s Charcoal Grilling:The Art of Cooking with Live Fire” by Jamie Purviance (Sunset, $19.95)

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GRILLED PIZZA WITH CARAMELIZED ONION, MUSHROOMS, ROASTED TOMATOES AND CHEESE
Yield: two 8- to 9-inch pizzas, about 12-16 wedges
2 small or 1 large red onion, cut in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices; divided use
2/3 cup sliced fresh mushrooms, such as cremini and/or shiitake; divided use
Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing dough and parchment paper, plus more for tossing with onion-mushroom mixture
Salt and pepper to taste
2 (12-inch) squares of parchment paper
1 (16-ounce) package refrigerated pizza dough (dough with herbs and garlic preferred)
1/3 cup roasted tomatoes or diced fresh tomatoes; divided use
2/3 cup grated mozzarella or mixture of grated Italian cheeses, such as Parmesan, fontina, Asiago and provolone
Garnish: 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves; divided use

Prepare a two-zone fire for medium heat if using charcoal grill (see questions and answer). If using gas grill, heat to medium, leaving one area of grill with heat off. Toss onion slices and mushrooms in bowl with enough olive oil to lightly coat all surfaces. Add salt and pepper; toss.

Grill on medium direct heat in grill basket or screen (a gizmo designed to be placed on top of grate to keep vegetables from falling through), rotating with long tongs as vegetables start to caramelize. Cook until onions are softened and thoroughly caramelized, about 5 to 10 minutes; set aside.

Brush parchment squares with olive oil. Cut dough in half and place each half on an oiled parchment square. Use fingers to flatten each, pressing to create a 8- to 9-inch irregular “round.”

Brush clean grill grate with olive oil. You can cook two crusts at once, but it is easier to start out with just one. Place dough on oiled grate over direct heat, parchment side up. Leave parchment in place and close lid. Grill about 1 to 2 minutes. Open grill and remove (and discard) parchment.

Give crust a quarter turn, checking to make sure it isn’t getting too brown. If necessary, move it to a cooler spot on grill. Keep lid closed as much as possible, until crust is well-marked and firm on the underside, a total of 2 to 5 minutes, rotating as needed for even cooking. Turn crust over.

If working with just one crust at a time, you can leave it on the grill and quickly add toppings. If working with more than one, remove to a baking sheet and add topping, then return it to grill. Spread half of mushroom-onion mixture on surface, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge. Scatter half of tomatoes and cheese on top.

Grill over direct heat with lid on as much as possible, until cheese melts and bottom of crust is crisp, 2 to 5 minutes, rotating pizza occasionally for even cooking. Transfer to cutting board. Brush edges with oil and garnish with thyme. Cut into wedges. Serve warm.